Pets First Aid Kit

Pet’s emergency can strike anytime; anyone who has pets must keep a pet first aid kit in easy reach. Many situations require quick action to reduce chances of injury, infection and further complications. Being prepared can keep manageable incident from becoming health threat. Someone who has faced emergency can tell it is essential.

First aid is not a substitute for veterinary treatment. However, some basic first aid can help before you are able to get your pet to a veterinarian. Veterinary care should be following first-aid attempts.

A pet’s first aid kit is the first step in being prepared should an animal emergency happen. Our Kit is designed to be used in home as well as camping outside with pets. Besides an emergency some instruments in the kit can be used regularly.

There are many pre-made kits available but building your own kit or adding to a pre-made one, may be the best way to have a kit customized to meet pet’s lifestyle and needs. Veterinarian can help you customize a first aid kit to meet pet’s specific medical needs.There are, however, some items that are necessary for any kit. Our kit contains all necessary instruments required in emergency. kit contains:

  • Kelly Forceps 14cm Curved
  • Scissors 14cm Sharp/Blunt
  • Forceps 16cm
  • Dropper
  • Universal Scissors 15cm
  • Toe Nail Clipper
  • Pouch

Pets First Aid Kit

 

The kit should also include basic supplies like:

  • Gauze
  • Nonstick bandages
  • Adhesive tape
  • Antibiotic ointment (like Neosporin)
  • Rectal thermometer
  • Syringe
  • Styptic Powder
  • Sterile Eye Wash
  • Ear wash
  • Medical Tape 1″
  • Roll Gauze
  • Vet Wrap 2″or 4″
  • Telfa pads
  • Vet-Prescribed pain relief
  • Latex or plastic exam gloves
  • Water-based lubricating jelly
  • Ice and hot packs
  • Extra towels
  • Diphenhydramine (aka Benadryl)
  • Syringe

One of the most important elements in the kit is the phone numbers:

  • Vet’s number
  • Emergency vet number
  • Poison control center number

These must be in speed dial; in an emergency there is not much time to look for them.

How First Aid kit can help?
In emergency, first aid kit can

  • Reduce stress for everyone
  • Cut recovery time
  • Empower you to effectively help
  • Being prepared can even make the difference

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Procedure for Lameness Examination in Horse

Procedure for Lameness Examination
Lameness is an abnormality of the horse’s gait that could be caused by pain, a mechanical problem such as “stringhalt” (muscle spasms), or a neurological problem such as “wobblers”.

Some causes of equine lameness:

  • Abscesses in the foot
  • Hoof Wall Cracks
  • Inflammation of the foot
  • Strain in tendons or joints
  • Bone chips
  • Fractures
  • Arthritis (inflamed joints)
  • Back pain
  • Nerve damage
  • Muscle soreness
  • Wounds, cuts, and bruises

 


Visual Examination
Examine the animal visually at a distance; note the body type and condition, conformation, any shifting in weight or abnormal stances, and the attitude of the animal.

Have a closer visual examination of the animal. Look for abnormal wear in the feet, cracks in hoof, lacerations, swellings in joints or tendons, atrophy or swelling of the muscles, and any other gross changes.

Animal can also be observed during exercise, at the walk, trot, and sometimes at the canter or gallop. Mostly the trot is the most helpful gait for the exam because of its symmetry.

The examination should be done by observing the horse movement from the front, the side and from behind. Also, circling the horse or moving the horse in figure eight (8) can locate lameness.

Observe head nodding, gait deficits, alterations in the height of the foot flight arc, phase of stride, joint flexion angle, foot placement, and symmetry in gluteal rise and duration.

Palpation and Manipulation
Observe the size and shape of the foot. Compare the normal with the abnormal. Look for any abnormal hoof wear, ring formation, heel bulb contraction, hoof wall cracks and swellings, and any other asymmetries. Palpate the coronary band for heat, swelling and pain on pressure.

Lameness due to Hoof Wall Damage
Hoof Wall Cracks may be associated with lameness. This could be checked with hoof tester examination. The examination applies a hoof tester in a systematic manner, to the entire sole and frog region and hoof wall. When applied properly, this instrument allows the examiner to palpate the hoof. Medical Tools Adjustable Hoof Tester 16” new design allows adjustable jaws over entire hoof surface; longer handle provides extra leverage. Jaws remain parallel for more even and steadier diagnostic pressure,

For a sensitive horse, the examiner may need to use gentle application at first, followed by firmer pressure. The examiner is trying to identify and localize hoof sensitivity. Although this sounds simple, it requires experience.

The arm of the hoof tester that is applied to the hoof wall needs to be continually checked so pressure is not being applied to the coronet hand. I prefer to begin at the lateral or medial angle of the sole and continue examination by applying hoof tester pressure every 2 to 3cm until the entire surface of the sole has been checked.

Next apply pressure to the frog (caudal, central and carnial) then I use the hoof tester on the hoof wall at the heels. Finally, I apply the tester diagonally from the medial heel to the dorsolateral hoof and from the lateral heel to the dorsolateral hoof. The diagonal application is probably most useful for the horses with pads.

If sensitive is encountered, it is absolutely necessary to confirm that the examiner has revealed true sensitivity by the horse. True sensitivity is identified by repeated intermittent hoof tester pressure that results in persistent reflexive withdrawal (flexing the shoulder) obviously, different amount of hoof tester pressure are applied to elicit a response, depending on the sole thickness and the painfulness of the condition. Hoof Tester response should be compared with those obtained from opposite foot.

Hoof Testers

 

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Tattooing Animals Procedure and Instructions


Animal identification is done when a calf is born. It is one of the most important tasks, as identification is essential for keeping genetic information as accurate as possible. Permanent identification can be done by either tattoo or tamper-proof eartags.

Calves identification by tattoos must be done before leaving individual pens or ties. One or both ears may be used; and the letter, numbers or both can be used for tattooing. No two animals of the same sex in the same herd may have the same tattoo. Tattoos must include at least one letter and one number. Tattoos may not exceed a total of seven letters and numbers in each ear. It is the owner’s responsibility to maintain a valid and legible tattoo in the ear of each animal owned.


The Basic Procedure

1. Select any letter

2. Number the calves consecutively from 1 to 999, the number preceded by the letter you have selected. For example, if you select A as your letter, the tattoos will read A1, A2, A3, and so on.

3. Put the same tattoo in both ears. In case the tattoo should fade in one ear, the animal can still be positively identified from the other ear.

4. After you have tattooed number 999, select a new letter and start over beginning with 1.

Getting Started

Work in an environment that is as clean as possible. To enhance bio-security, wear gloves, use separate cloths or pads to clean animals’ ears, and disinfect equipment between animals.

First, gather the necessary materials:

Halter;

Alcohol pads or rubbing alcohol and a soft, clean cloth;

spray bottle of rubbing alcohol;

tattoo ink;

Tattoo kit.

Good tattooing can be done by maintain tattooing equipment, keeping it clean and replacing broken or dull characters.

Tattooing Procedures

Clean Ear with Alcohol
Using an alcohol pad, clean out the ear completely. If wax is mixed with the ink, the tattoo is most likely fadeout. If no alcohol pads are available, rubbing alcohol with a clean cloth will also work, as long as the wax is completely removed. A clean ear is the first step to a successful tattoo.

Applying Ink
Apply a generous amount of ink over the area to be tattooed, usually between the middle ribs of the ear. Keep out of the hair around the edge of the ear. An area should be slightly larger than the tattoo equipment can cover.

Tattooing
Get a secure hold on the calf. After checking the tattoo by punching it into a piece of paper, position the tongs in the center of the ear and squeeze firmly. Avoiding the ribs will prevent bleeding. Be sure to lift the tongs out straight; tattoos can be ruined by scratches.

Reapplying Ink
Again, apply ink and rub in firmly. This single step will assure a lasting tattoo.

Sanitizing Equipment
Sanitize tongs between calves by spraying rubbing alcohol on the tongs and the individual tattoo pieces. This should be done before and after each procedure.

The Finished Product
After several weeks, the ink will dry and flake out of the ear, leaving a legible tattoo and a permanent means of identification.


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Bad Breath in Dogs

Bad Breath in Dogs

If you ever come across unpleasant smell out of your dog, The most common cause of (Hlitosis) bad breath is tartar buildup surrounding the teeth. Small particles off food remain in the mouth after eating; these particles decompose creating conditions where oral bacteria thrive. These bacterial grow to form plaque which is a combination of bacteria, mineral and decomposed food.

Tooth and gum problems are the most common in pets. Bad breath in dogs and cats go hand in hand with other health problems it is important to treat this problem even if the pet’s breath is not objectionable.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.medical-tools.com/shop/Tartar-Scrapping-Mouth-Cleaning-Kit-for-Medium-Dogs.html

Get your pet’s teeth cleaned professionally!

Kit Includes:

  • Tartar removal Scalars
  • Dental Mirror
  • Dental Tweezers
  • Mouth Gag 14cm
  • Free Leather Pouch

Placid temperament is not difficult with Medical Tools Tartar Scrapping Kit, Many pet professionals perform excellent tooth cleaning at home. Kit Scalars remove the tartar and other unnecessary foreign bodies from teeth, dental mirror help to view deep teeth while dental tweezers removes unnecessary object from teeth.
A thorough oral check up may be required. Usual reason for such odor is any abscesses and decayed teeth. Any swelling in gums is usually resulting of the accumulation of bacteria and germs. The problem in dog’s gum is called periodontal. And periodontal probing can help to know about it and more signs of abnormality and infection.

Kit also includes a specially designed spring action Mouth Gag with nylon inserts it open the mouth with reduced trauma,

Medical Tools tartar scrapping tools kit is manufactured under strict quality control and used by professionals around the world.

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CASTRATING CALVES AND LAMBS

CASTRATING CALVES AND LAMBS

By: Edward A. Leviness
Area Livestock Specialist 1(Retired) Cooperative Extension College of Agriculture The University of Arizona Tucson, Arizona 85721

Castration [emasculation], stated simply, is the unsexing of a male animal. The practice of castrating males, in animal species used for food production purposes, is universally practiced and is probably one of the oldest surgical operations known to man.

The purpose of castration is not only to prevent reproduction, but to improve the fattening and meat production capability and to make the animal more docile and easy to handle. In farm animals, other than horses, the job of castration usually involves simple surgery wherein the testicles (male reproductive glands that produce male reproductive cells and a hormone) are removed. Horse castration will not be

discussed here, except to mention that with the horse, in addition to the testicles, special attention must be given to the removal of certain tissues adjacent to the testicles, to prevent the animal from exhibiting a  level of false sexual activity sometimes referred to as

Elastrator — instrument designed to spread and secure a small rubber ring around the spermatic cords, thus stopping blood supply.

Burdizzo — instrument that crushes the spermatic cords inside the scrotum, thus stopping the blood supply, causing eventual atrophy of testicles.

Wound Dressing — medicinal preparation used to prevent infection of wounds and cuts.

Age: It is recommended that bull calves not needed for breeding be castrated sometime between 4-10 weeks of age.

Season of Year: Spring and late fall are the best times of year to castrate calves. This time not only coincides with customary ranch herd roundups, but also is a time when the chance of wound infestation from flies is reduced.

Position of Animal: Young calves, 4- 10 weeks old, should be thrown to the ground and held in a recumbent position. If it is necessary to castrate calves 8-9 months of age or older, these animals, when properly restrained, can be castrated in a standing position.

CALF CASTRATION

Equipment That May Be Used:

  • Jackknife — a cutting device with one or more cutting blades.
  • Emasculator — instrument designed to crush the tissue before it cuts them, and thus prevents serious hemorrhage.

Of the three methods of castration mentioned here, surgical castration is the one by far the most commonly used. A description of how surgical castration is used on calves is given in the following.

Methods of Castration:

  1. Surgical — involves cutting into the scrotum, removing the testicles and severing the spermatic cords. This is commonly referred to as “cutting the calf.” (Get Surgical Castration Kit)
  2. Burdizzo (bloodless castration) — in this method, the scrotum is not cut, but by the use of a special pressure-leverage instrument, termed a burdizzo, the spermatic cords are crushed and severed inside the scrotum. In using this method, it is necessary to “work” a cord to the side of the scrotum and then clamp the instrument about 1-3/4 inches above the testicle. The instrument should be held in this position for 3-5 seconds.Repeat the same procedure with the other cord, making sure the instrument is clamped about one inch below the point where the first cord was clamped. (Get Burdizzo Castration Kit)
  3. Elastrator — by the use of a special hand leverage device, called an elastrator, a strong rubber ring, about 3/ 4-inch in diameter, is stretched open and slid over the scrotum and testicles and around the spermatic cords. When the device is removed, the contracted rubber ring remains and squeezes the sper­matic cords to the point that no nutrients can again reach the testicles. This results in an atrophy, or wasting away, of the testicles. Of the three methods of castration mentioned here, surgical castration is the one by far the most commonly used. A description of how surgical castration is used on calves is given in the following. (Get Elastrator Castration Kit)

Procedures:

Step No. 1 — The bull calf is thrown to the ground and securely held in a recumbent position with the hind legs spread apart to permit access to the scrotal area.

To “throw” a calf, a team of “flank­ers” is used. In prac­tice, one member of the team reaches across the animal’s back and simultaneously grasps the calf’s right leg below the knee with his left hand and the rear flank with his right hand. He then quickly “lifts” the animal with his hands and exerts force under the animal’s abdomen with his right knee. This action will throw the calf off-balance and cause it to fall to the ground, resting on its left side. The team member now grasps the right (top) leg near the ankle with both hands and flexes it backward and, at the same time, exerts force into the calf’s shoulder with his knee(s). As the animal is being tentatively secured in this manner, a second team member quickly grasps the calf’s right (top) hind leg with both hands from the rear (Y) and, in a single motion, places his foot above the hock of the calf’s lower hind leg (X) and assumes a sitting position behind the animal. By exerting forward leverage with his foot and rearward leverage with his hands, this team member is able to spread the calf’s legs longitudinally, allowing access to the scrotal area.

Step No. 2 — Sanitation is important, so dirt or manure in the area of the scrotum should be removed. Although in regular ranch opera­tions the scrotum is not washed or cleansed, care should nevertheless be taken to keep the area as clean as possible.

Step No. 3 — Force the testicle upward in the scrotum and cut off the lower one-third length of the scrotum with a jackknife. This will expose the testicles from below. Grasp both testicles and pull them out clear of the scrotum. Next, open the jaws of the emasculator, place them around the spermatic cords and slide the instrument up the cords toward the scrotum. When approximately two inches of the cords are visible, close the jaws of the emasculator firmly, and hold the instrument in this position for 3­5 seconds. By the function of the emasculator, the spermatic cords

Step No. 4 — Apply a wound dressing and fly repellent to the scrotal area. Customarily, several other manage­ment practices such as dehorning, branding, ear marking or vaccinations are carried out while the animal is in this recumbent position. If and when these practices are completed, the animal can be released.

Note: Though the surgical method described in the foregoing is the one most commonly used, some stockmen choose to use a slightly different surgical technique. This technique consists of squeezing the testicle tight against the scrotum and then cutting through the scrotum to expose the testicle. Next, a small slit is cut in the membrane (tunic) covering the body of the testicle; when this is done, the exposed testicle emerges instantly.

The testicle is then pulled out and the spermatic cord is severed by the emasculator. The same procedure is followed to remove the second testicle.

LAMB CASTRATION

Equipment That May Be Used: Same with cattle.

Age: Male lambs not to be used for breeding should be castrated anywhere from one to two weeks of age.

Season of Year: Same as for calf.

Position of Animal: The animal is held in sitting position with the hind legs extended upward.

Methods of Castration: Same as with calf.

Procedures:

Surgical Castration Method — The steps in surgically castrating a lamb are the same as those followed in castrating a calf.

Elastrator Method — The elastrator castration method is probably used more with lambs than with any other farm animal. The method is quick, bloodless and very effective, if used properly. A review of the procedure follows:

Step No. 1 —  Hold the lamb in a sitting position on a table, with animal’s hind legs spread apart and pointing upwards.

Step No. 2 -  Place specially designed rubber ring in the elastrator. Stretch the ring and place it over the scrotum and testicles and around the spermatic cords. Care should be taken to ensure that ring is released well above the testicles and approximately one inch from the abdominal floor.

Step NO. 3 – If other management practices are to be done at this time, such as vaccination and docking, these can be done and the animal then released.

Area Livestock Specialist 1(Retired) Cooperative Extension College of Agriculture The University of Arizona Tucson, Arizona 85721.

This article is meant to be a resource of information only and must not be used as reference to perform castration other operations upon cattle/animals.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 




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Equine Hoof Instruments List

Hoof trimming is one of the most important parts of horse foot care. You got to do it at right time, with right tool and with right techniques. There is not shortcut to experience and there is no alternate to right tools that do the job well. Regardless of how experienced you are, you will be needing one of the listed tools from each category to do a hoof job.

  • Hoof Tester – To test condition of hoof from various angles, sides and places. You may not need a hoof-tester if the hoof is healthy but in case you need to know if it is, hoof tester come very handy. A hoof tester is used to determine the location of a painful area in the foot of a lame horse. To test for a foot problem, place the end of one jaw on the suspected area and the other on the outside of the wall, and exert pressure in that area by closing the handles. The horse’s reaction to the pressure in that area is the basis for the diagnosis of lameness.
    • Hoof Tester 13 Inch
    • Adjustable hoof tester 13 Inch
    • Hoof Tester 19 Inch
  • Hoof pick – to clean debris from the bottom of the hoof and level the grooves outside the frog. Hooves are picked out from heel to toe. Frequent cleaning of the hoof helps prevent thrush.
  • Hoof knife – to trim away loose dried out sole and to trim off loose or ragged frog. A hoof knife is used to relieve pressure on corns and cracks, and to remove foreign bodies from the foot. Hoof knives are available in wide, narrow and loop types in right-handed and left-handed styles.
    • Left Hand
      • Left Handed Classic Hoof Knife
      • Left Handed Hoof Knife with long handle
      • Left Handed Hoof Knife with Narrow Blade
      • Left Handed Hoof Knife with Wide Blade
      • Left Handed Drop Blade
      • Left Handed Offset Blade
      • Left Handed Curved Blade
      • Mustad Left Hand Hoof Knife
      • Double Edge Hoof Knife
    • Right Hand
      • Right Handed Classic Hoof Knife
      • Right Handed Knife with Long Handle
      • Right Handed Knife with Narrow Blade
      • Right Handed Knife with Wide Blade
      • Right Handed Drop Blade
      • Right Handed Offset Blade
      • Right Handed Curved Blade
      • Mustad Right Hand Hoof Knife
      • Double Edge Hoof Knife
  • Nippers – to trim the outgrowth of hoof-wall from the hoof. Hoof Nippers are available in varying sizes, i.e. from 14- and 15-inch nippers are used where more leverage is needed on dry hoofs and on draft horses while 12-inch nippers can be used on show horses, racehorses and foals. Following are the commonly used hoof nippers.
  • Rasp – to level bottom of the hoof wall, remove burrs and smoothen the round edges outside the hoof-wall. The other side is fine for smooth finishing work.  Following Hoof Rasps are common and frequently used.
    • Bellota
      • Bellota Classic
      • Bellota Top Finish
      • Bellota Top Sharp
      • Bellota Top Finish
    • Heller
      • Heller Red Tang
      • Heller Legend
      • Heller Blackmaster
      • Heller Black Legend
      • Heller Big Hoof
      • Heller Master Finish
    • Save- Edge
      • Save- Edge Finish
      • Save- Edge Beast
    • Vallorbe
      • Vallorbe Spirit
  • Calipers – to measure the hoof’s length at the centre of the toe. Clippers will help you match size of front-feet and hind feet. You can also use Rulers or tape measure for the purpose. You may want to measure lengthand width on the bottom of each foot, and keep a record of how your horse’s feet change over the first year. Also needed for ordering boots.

Hoof Cutting/Care Instruments at Medical-Tools.com

Medical-Tools offers following Hoof Cutting/Care Instruments.

To get more information about Hoof Instruments, please contact us.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 




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Pig Catchers


Pig Catchers/Animal Snatchers/Holders
(or sometimes also referred as Animal Snares) are instruments to catch animals with ease. Mad dogs and wild pigs/boars are one of the most difficult animals to keep under control where Animal Snatchers come handy. These are also helpful for the veterinarians who need to control animals without giving them sedatives. Animal Snatchers prove a great help where you need to keep the animal at a reasonable distance as well as under control. Animal Snatchers also come with lock which hold the tightened string once it is pulled. Animal Snatcher for small animals is used for less-violent animals like sheep and cattle.

Pigs Catcher/Animal Snatchers are also available with gripping rubber and is particularly useful against Wolfs, Dogs and Hyenas.

Buy Pig Catchers/Animal Snatchers which are most common

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 




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Polansky Vaginal Speculum

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Male Dog Castration

What is Castration

Castration – Neutering is the surgical procedure which removes a dogs testicles (or testes).

Castration and Dog Behavior

Testosterone a steroid hormone is produced in testicles, as dogs grow, during their adolescence (6-18 months) the levels of this hormone increase such that secondary sex-related characteristics become more evident. These include mounting, leg lifting and higher levels of aggression. Removal of the testes reduces the production of testosterone and hence sex related behaviors.

Castration and Aggression towards Humans

Aggressiveness is the one of the greatest concern. There are various reasons of aggression and these also vary from dog to dog. Understanding these reasons, their causes and symptoms requires the experience of a trained behaviorist. Often it is as a result of the dog attempting to gain a higher rank within its pack (which includes your family). This is known as dominance aggression and surveys have shown that this form of aggression is more common in entire males than castrated males. In such cases, Vet or behaviorist may recommend castration as part of a behavior program to tackle this form of aggression.
On the other hand, dog’s discomfort with a particular situation or circumstance may result in fear or nervous aggression. There can be a number of reasons for this, but lack of socialisation during ‘puppyhood’ is usually the main cause. In such cases, a behavior modification program is unlikely to include castration.

Castration and Aggression towards other Dogs

Aggression between dogs is most often either fear aggression or dominance aggression. Fear aggression may be the result of a previous experience of being attacked, or because they feel they are unable to escape a particular situation. In the latter case, dogs are more likely to display fear aggression whilst on lead as opposed to being off lead. Canine castration would not be a part of resolving aggression caused through fear.
Castration may be recommended where aggression between dogs is orientated towards other males and where fear aggression has been ruled out. Castration may reduce the desire to dominate and reduce overall aggression thresholds. Additionally, castrated dogs smell less masculine and are less likely to be the focus of aggressive intentions by other dogs.

Castration and Dog’s Behavior

Castrated dogs smell different and can become the focus of attention from other males. This is particularly evident in recently castrated dogs.
Contrary to popular belief, there is no evidence that castration causes a dog to put on weight. It is true that after castration dogs can have an increased appetite and will eat more food if given. Hence the over weight is often due to over feeding rather than the effects of castration.
Castration does not affect an owner’s ability to train their dog. In fact many find castrated dogs are less distracted and easier to train

Alternatives to Castration

Some owners mistakenly believe that allowing their dog to mate will reduce their dog’s frustrations and consequently ease behavioral problems. This is not the case and in many cases things can get worse as the dogs interest in females and sense of status increases further.
Hormone treatments prescribed by vets can be beneficial in tackling behavior problems. They are normally in tablet or injection form and are a useful way of modifying behavior while other behavior improvement tactics are employed.

Advantages of Castration

There are several advantages of castration such as
•    It eliminates the reproduction potential
•    It reduces sexual activity
•    It reduces tendency to roam and fight
•    It reduces general level of aggression
•    It eliminate chances of testicular cancer
•    It resolve disease of the prostate gland

Disadvantages to castration

There are very few disadvantages to having dog castrated, it is a quick, safe and routine procedure, and there are no risks to pet though having low testosterone levels. Some of the disadvantages are

  • Unable to breed from dog.  Castration is not a reversible procedure.
  • Dog will undergo a general anesthetic.  General anesthetics are very safe, especially in young dogs, but all involve some risk, however low, to pet.  If you have any concerns, you should talk to vet.

Post operative care

  • The most important thing you can do after dog’s surgery, is to keep him rested.  Lead only exercise until the stitches are out is advisable.
  • The scrotum is very sensitive and can easily bruise or swell.  Sometimes it can become so swollen it looks like dog hasn’t been castrated!  Again rest is important to prevent this from happening.
  • It is also important he doesn’t bother with the wound by scratching or licking at it.  This will cause it to become inflamed, painful and possibly infected.
  • If you think dog may bother with the wound, Vet should be able to provide you with a ‘buster collar’, this is a lamp-shade collar which will mean he cannot reach it.
  • Vet should book at least one  post operative check up to ensure things are healing properly.  However, if you are concerned at all, you should seek veterinary advice immediately.

Castration myths

Castration will make my dog fat

+ FALSE – castrating dog will slow down his metabolism and may make him less active.  However, this is easily compensated for by cutting down on his food intake. It is over eating, not castration which makes neutered dogs over weight!

Castration is unnatural

+ FALSE – Often, the way our dogs live these days is unnatural, with little contact with other dogs and in a family unit.  Entire males can find this frustrating, especially if they are of a dominant character or they live near entire females.

Castration will change my dogs personality

+ FALSE – this is not the case, and often, castrated males can make better pets as they are less prone to aggression and mood swings.

Castration Age

Most of the veterinarians agree that the best age for castration is between 6-12 months of age. At this age the procedure is very low risk and easy to perform. Early castration is the responsible thing to do. It could save the dogs life and make him a much more desirable housemate.

Castration Instrument Kit

Medical Tools 23 Pcs professional quality Medical Tools Male Dog Castration – Neutering Kit contains all necessary tools to perform complete procedure. All Tools are made from Surgical Grade stainless steel and used by professionals

Kit Includes following Instruments
•    Olsen Hagar Needle Holder 16cm TC 01 Pcs
•    Kelly Forceps 14cm Straight 02 Pcs
•    Kelly Forceps 14cm Curved 02 Pcs
•    Mayo Scissors 15cm Straight TC 01 Pcs
•    Mosquito Forceps 12.5cm Straight 02 Pcs
•    Mosquito Forceps 12.5cm Curved 02 Pcs
•    Dressing Forceps 16cm 02 Pcs
•    Tissue Forceps 16cm 1:2 02 Pcs
•    Scalpel Handle #3 01 Pcs
•    Scalpel Handle Blades 04 Pcs
•    Backhaus Towel Forceps 11cm 04 Pcs
•    Adson Forceps 12cm 01 Pcs
•    Adson Forceps 12cm 1:2 01 Pcs
•    Adson-Brown Forceps 12cm 7:7 01 Pcs
•    Snook Hook 20cm 01 Pcs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 




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Vaginal Examination in Equine and Cattle

Polansky Vaginal Speculum is designed for large animals, It is used for diagnostic examinations and other procedures. It holds the labia open so the vaginal vault can be viewed for swabs taking or direct medication to the uterus. it can also be used during the urinary catherterization of a female.

Medical Tools Polanksy Speculum is made of surgical stainless steel it can be processed for frequent sterilizations and long life.

with its butterfly screw its simple to operate, simply turn the hand screw until desired opening is achieved.

Measurements: Length from end to end of the entire instrument is 17 inches with a maximum spread of near 5 inches. The length from end to end of the speculum blades is 13-3/4 inches.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 




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