Dental Extracting Forceps and their application

Forceps # Lower Incisors and Canines Upper Incisors and Canines Lower Premolars Upper Premolars Lower Molars Upper Molars Lower Roots Upper Roots Lower Third Molars Upper Third Molars Lower for Children Upper for Children

Tattooing Animals Procedure and Instructions

Animal identification is done when a calf is born. It is one of the most important tasks, as identification is essential for keeping genetic information as accurate as possible. Permanent identification can be done by either tattoo or tamper-proof eartags.

Calves identification by tattoos must be done before leaving individual pens or ties. One or both ears may be used; and the letter, numbers or both can be used for tattooing. No two animals of the same sex in the same herd may have the same tattoo. Tattoos must include at least one letter and one number. Tattoos may not exceed a total of seven letters and numbers in each ear. It is the owner’s responsibility to maintain a valid and legible tattoo in the ear of each animal owned.

The Basic Procedure

1. Select any letter

2. Number the calves consecutively from 1 to 999, the number preceded by the letter you have selected. For example, if you select A as your letter, the tattoos will read A1, A2, A3, and so on.

3. Put the same tattoo in both ears. In case the tattoo should fade in one ear, the animal can still be positively identified from the other ear.

4. After you have tattooed number 999, select a new letter and start over beginning with 1.

Getting Started

Work in an environment that is as clean as possible. To enhance bio-security, wear gloves, use separate cloths or pads to clean animals’ ears, and disinfect equipment between animals.

First, gather the necessary materials:


Alcohol pads or rubbing alcohol and a soft, clean cloth;

spray bottle of rubbing alcohol;

tattoo ink;

Tattoo kit.

Good tattooing can be done by maintain tattooing equipment, keeping it clean and replacing broken or dull characters.

Tattooing Procedures

Clean Ear with Alcohol
Using an alcohol pad, clean out the ear completely. If wax is mixed with the ink, the tattoo is most likely fadeout. If no alcohol pads are available, rubbing alcohol with a clean cloth will also work, as long as the wax is completely removed. A clean ear is the first step to a successful tattoo.

Applying Ink
Apply a generous amount of ink over the area to be tattooed, usually between the middle ribs of the ear. Keep out of the hair around the edge of the ear. An area should be slightly larger than the tattoo equipment can cover.

Get a secure hold on the calf. After checking the tattoo by punching it into a piece of paper, position the tongs in the center of the ear and squeeze firmly. Avoiding the ribs will prevent bleeding. Be sure to lift the tongs out straight; tattoos can be ruined by scratches.

Reapplying Ink
Again, apply ink and rub in firmly. This single step will assure a lasting tattoo.

Sanitizing Equipment
Sanitize tongs between calves by spraying rubbing alcohol on the tongs and the individual tattoo pieces. This should be done before and after each procedure.

The Finished Product
After several weeks, the ink will dry and flake out of the ear, leaving a legible tattoo and a permanent means of identification.

Periodontal Luxators

A Dental instrument used to extract teeth. This specially designed periodontal ligament knife has a fine tapered blade that compresses the alveolar, cuts the membrane, and eases the tooth from its socket. The ability to reduce trauma during tooth extraction is becoming increasingly important, especially for patients requiring subsequent implant placement with minimal bone loss. Medical Tools dental Luxators are specially designed periodontal ligament knives with a fine tapered blade that compresses the alveolar, cuts the membrane, and gently eases the tooth from its socket reducing damage to surrounding tissue and keeping a better anatomy for an implant site.

The Luxator Instruments are used by cutting and rocking instead of the traditional elevating methods of lifting and prying. The rigid thin blade of the Luxator is inserted into the periodontium two-thirds the length of the root, allowing the final loosening and removal of the tooth to be performed with minimal amount of force. The result is a clean extraction with little tissue damage and less postoperative bleeding and pain.

Qualities of Luxators

Medical Tools Luxators are used by professionals because

  • Extremely Flat, Delicate and Sharp Instruments Cut Periodontal Ligament while Preserving Bone Anatomy
  • Thin, Down Angled, Tapered Tips ensure smooth widening of the Alveole
  • Fine Blade Inserts between Bone and Root with minimal damage to Bone Structure
  • Alternative to standard elevators for less Traumatic Extractions
  • Set Includes both Straight and Down Angled Tips for access to both Anterior and Posterior teeth

Luxators Sizes

Most commonly used sizes are

  • 3mm Straight
  • 3mm Down Angled
  • 5mm Straight
  • 5mm Down Angled

Precautions to be taken while using Luxator

  • The compact bone is thickest on the buccal side of the first and second molars in the maxilla and should be luxated from the palatal side.
  • The compact bone is thickest on the buccal side of the second and third molars in the mandible and should be luxated from the lingual side.
  • To minimize the risk of alveolar ridge fractures, the 5mm Luxator should be used buccally & lingually in molar region.
  • The maxillary lateral incisor should be luxated in a palatal direction because of the angle of the root.
  • Since most roots are normally curved distally, this should be taken into consideration during extractions.

Important Points in Hoof Trimming

Farrier nippers

Farrier nippers are like nail clippers for horses. You use them to trim a horses hoof so that a shoe will go on nicely .But always be sure to use them with complete caution and care so that you do not hurt the horse. Nippers are used to remove the surplus growth of the hoof wall. Several sizes are available: 12, 14, 15 and 16 inch nippers are used where more leverage is needed on dry hoofs and on draft horses; 12 inch nippers can be used on show horses, racehorses and foals and those with weak hand strength. When used by an expert farrier, the viewer may notice that the farrier uses the nippers to cut off any overly excessive sole and hoof areas that reduce the need for extra rasping or knife strokes.

Hoof Nippers

These are used to cut the hoof wall down to the correct length and to cut off any excessive or damaged sole or hoof area to reduce the need for extra rasping. The Our 12” hoof nippers are strong and durable hoof nipper suitable for non professional use. The 12 is ideal for most hoof wall thicknesses or trimmers with average size hands, but as with all hoof trimming tools should be used with care. Medical Tools Hoof Nipper are Sharp and durable, These are well balanced for perfect trimming. Blades are sharpened by hand for longer life. the hoof nipper makes light work of overgrown horn on your horses hooves and is an essential part of any hoof trimmers tool kit.


  1. After evaluating the balance of the hoof and movement, the dead sole is trimmed from the sole area with a hoof knife. Enough sole has been removed when the sole flexes with thumb pressure.
  2. The bars should be trimmed out level with the sole to prevent them from being broken or torn.
  3. The ragged and loose edges of the frog should be trimmed so that the frog almost touches the ground when the hoof bears weight.
  4. Remove the hoof wall with a pair of nippers. Begin nipping at the toe, and move around to the heels, making sure to keep the nippers perpendicular to the hoof wall to ensure a straight cut. After the nipper cut, sight down the hoof and check for balance. Both sides should be of equal length.
  5. The hoof should be rasped level and not around the hoof wall.
  6. Once the bottom of the hoof is level, the shaped hoof should be examined. Any lipping or flaring of the quarters or toe should be rasped until the hoof has the correct shape. The rasped area must be blended into the slope of the undistorted upper part of the wall.

Horse’s hoof with shoe

The front hoof angle is usually 50 to 55 degrees. It should be the same length and angle as the shoulder. The angle of the hind hoof is usually 2 to 3 degrees greater than that of the front hoof.

Evaluating a Trim Job

When evaluating a trim job on a hoof, first evaluate the hoof on the ground for the correct shape and then from the bottom for levelness. Make sure the hoof is uniform, with no distortions. Then, pick up the hoof and sight down to make sure the hoof wall is level from side to side. Next, check the sole to make sure it is flexible to thumb pressure. It should not be so thin that walking on hard ground will make the horse sore. Check to make sure the frog has been trimmed properly, the front feet are the same angle and length, and the hind hooves are the same angle and length. Finally, watch the horse move. Make sure it is sound, not lame, following trimming.

Hoof Tools

Farrier Half Round Nipper 12 Inch

Medical Tools Half-Round Nippers are made from high grade steel to provide correct bevel to the cutting edge. Blades are aligned and sharpened by hand for accurate trimming and longer blade life. High quality tool is a real asset of professional in setting clips, removing access sole or re-secting hoof wall. Our Half-Round Nipper is an excellent tool for reaching those hard to get at places in the hoof. Medical Tools half round nipper is used by professionals for maximum precision and minimum fatigue.






Farrier Hoof Nipper 12 Inch

Medical Tools Hoof Nippers are made from high grade steel to provide correct cutting edge. Blades are aligned and sharpened by hand for accurate trimming and longer blade life.
Our Farrier Nippers feature a hardened cutting edge to provide the best possible trim, and balanced comfortable grip, suitable for a variety of hoof sizes. The rounded corners and strengthened jaw provide superior durability and a solid feel. An excellent tool for cutting. Medical Tools nippers are used by professionals for maximum precision and minimum fatigue.









Farrier Hammer 12 Inch

Medical Tools Hoof Hammers are made from high grade forged steel. 12″ long hardwood handle and well balanced. The jaws are designed to ring off nails with ease.
Supports keeps handle tight and provide little extra “whip”. Hammer can also be used to remove nails that have been well driven. A useful Farrier tool.
Medical Tools hammers are used by professionals for maximum precision and minimum fatigue.

Periodontal Diseases in Pets

Many pet owners believe that animals clean their own teeth naturally by chewing on bones, sticks, or other items in nature. While it may be true that animals in the wild chew to clean their teeth, they do not avoid oral diseases or the systemic infections that follow. In addition, animals in the wild are not eating processed foods that deposit plaque on the teeth—more likely they are eating entire rodents and other small prey, bones included. As chewing and tearing apart a kill can scrape teeth and massage gums, these animals suffer from broken teeth and a variety of problems in the mouth that contribute to illness and early death.

Domestic pets enjoy veterinary care that includes regular oral exams and teeth cleaning, preventive measures that allow for disease prevention and an extended life. Pets who do not receive dental care often suffer from gum disease as early as age 3. This leads to more serious health problems including heart, lung, and kidney disease. Preventing these problems is as simple. Periodontal disease is commonly found disease that is dealt with oral surgery.

Periodontal Disease

Periodontal disease is an infection of the tissue surrounding the teeth that takes hold in progressive stages. It starts out as a bacterial film called plaque. The bacteria attach to the teeth. When the bacteria die they can be calcified by calcium in saliva. This forms a hard, rough substance called tartar or calculus which allows more plaque to accumulate. Initially, plaque is soft and brushing or chewing hard food and toys can dislodge it. If left to spread, plaque can lead to gingivitis, an inflammation of the gums, causing them to become red and swollen and to bleed easily. As plaque and calculus develop below the gum line, professional cleaning will be needed to help manage it. If the plaque and tartar buildup continues unchecked, infection can form around the root of the tooth. In the final stages of periodontal disease, the tissues surrounding the tooth are destroyed, the bony socket holding the tooth in erodes and the tooth becomes loose. This is a very painful process for your four-legged friend, but these problems can be averted before they even start.

Signs of periodontal disease

All pets are at risk for developing dental problems. Once a pet displays any of the warning signs below, serious periodontal disease may be present. Loving Family Animal hospital encourages not only regular cleanings but preventative care at home to help prevent periodontal disease.

  • Tooth loss
  • Subdued behavior
  • Abnormal drooling
  • Dropping food out of the mouth
  • Swallowing food whole
  • Bad breath
  • Yellow-brown crust on teeth
  • Bleeding gums/Swollen Gums
  • Goes to food bowl, doesn’t eat
  • Change of chewing or eating habits
  • Chewing on only one side

Treatment of oral disease

  • Pet owners should look for the warning signs of oral disease. If any signs are present, the pet should be taken to the veterinarian for a dental exam.
  • Pet owners can reduce the risk of oral disease. The first step in preventing oral disease is a routine physical examination, including dental exam.
  • Pet owners should practice a regular dental care regimen at home. We offer several dental products to help with home care and are willing to help.
  • Pet owners should schedule regular follow-up care with their veterinarians and ask about specially formulated foods with proven benefits in plaque and tartar removal.


Periodontal Instruments

Canine Periodontal Instrument Pack









Canine Mouth Gag Set








Dogs Tartar Scrapping – Mouth Cleaning Kit for Large Dogs










Tartar Scrapping Kit for Medium Dogs









Tartar Scrapping Kit for Small Dogs










Tartar Scrapping Kit for Medium Dogs

How to Pull Off Shoe

How to Pull Off Shoe

After clinch next step is to remove the shoe with pulloffs. Pull Offs should be hold with one handle in each hand, bring the handles together to completely close the jaws of the pulloffs around the outside heel of the shoe, behind the last nail. Then, with both hands around both handles, rock the handles toward the toe and back toward the heel several times to loosen the shoe a little; same can be repeated on the inside heel.

Give the pulloffs a sharp, quick push away from you, toward the toe of the foot. The sharper and faster this movement, the more easily the shoe will come loose; if it’s slow and weak, nothing may happen.

Medical Tools farrier tools are designed to bring comfort, performance and durability to the job. Excellent quality used by professionals.

  • Blades are aligned and sharpened by hand for accurate trimming and longer blade life.
  • Smooth Serrations
  • Black Color Coated
  • with Rubber Grips
  • Smooth working
Pull Offs

Pull Offs

Pull Offs

Pull Offs

How to pull Nail From Hoof

Crease nail-puller can be use to pull out nails. Medical Tools nail pullers are gentle on a sore foot. Clamp the jaws around the head of nail in turn and pry the nail out by pushing the handle away from you.  When all the nails are out, the shoe came off easily.

Nails should be gently pulled through the foot; Creased Nail Pullers perform continuous pull. Our Nail Pullers are developed specifically for pulling horseshoe nails. Full polished head with wide throat clearance. Engineered to allow close cutting.

An essential tool for the removal of miss-driven nails or nails which have been in for some time. Professional quality and exceptional value.

Medical Tools 13″ Nail Pullers are excellent because

  • made of high quality steel
  • narrow beaks allow for easy removal of all types of nails
  • Ergonomically designed
  • Hand Polished
Crease Nail Pullers

Crease Nail Pullers


Sheep Tail Docking Banding Elastrator


Docking is when the tail is shortened. Docking improves the health and welfare of sheep and lambs. The tail protects the sheep’s anus, vulva, and udder from weather extremes. Sheep lift their tail when they defecate and use their tail, to some extent, to scatter their feces. The ancestor of most modern sheep breeds (Mouflon) is a hair sheep with a short tail. Centuries of selection for wool production has resulted in sheep with long, woolly tails which usually require docking.

Sheep Tail Banding

All lambs are born with tails, much longer than what most adult sheep have. Much like many canines, such as cocker spaniels, sheep have their tails docked by their owners through a process called “banding.” The method is performed with the elastrator










An elastrator is simply a device to get a powerful elastic band around the base of the tail Slide the elastic bands over the four prongs at the top. Squeeze the handle to open. Its simple, easy , bloodless and most commonly used methods. The band cuts off the blood supply to the tail, causing the tail to fall off in 7 to 10 days.

Some people dock lambs as soon as they are born, but its preferred to make sure the lamb is thriving well in the new world before adding another burden to it. Lambs are usually docked at 24 hours of age. It can be done up to ten days old but the longer you wait the more discomfort the lamb will have. Nerves are not developed yet in the first day of life so they feel nothing during the procedure. This makes sense because they don’t react at all–they are more annoyed at being held.

This method causes the lamb to be very susceptible to tetanus. It is imperative that either a tetanus anti-toxin be administered at the time of docking, or that the mother should be vaccinated with tetanus taxied 2-4 weeks before giving birth. Those immunities will cover the lamb.

Ear Cropping is Necessary?

Necessary for Pets?

Originally, ear cropping was done on “working” dogs such as terriers or hunting dogs, to save their ears from being injured while they were working. The practice of cropping ears has continued, because many dog fanciers feel that the cropped ears complete the look of the dog. Many people are questioning the need for ear cropping: The aspect of animal cruelty comes into play, and many argue that there is no medical, physical, environmental or cosmetic advantage for the dog to have the pinnas (ear flaps) surgically altered.  They claim to subject any dog to “disfiguring” and an unnecessary surgical procedure, subsequent taping and bandaging after the surgery, amounts to animal cruelty and is indefensible.

Others will argue that for some breeds, the cropped ear will help prevent ear canal infections, and make the opportunity for ear infections much less likely.  They will state the ear cropping is no different philosophically or ethically than surgery such as spaying, neutering, removing protruding dewclaws or tail docking. Today most veterinarians would agree that the incidence of ear infections in breeds with erect standing ears is far less than in breeds with droopy, pendulous ears.

Ear Cropping Breeds

Ear Cropping is performed on over 20 breeds of dogs, such as Doberman Pinschers, Great Danes, Boxers, Schnauzers, and Pit Bull Terriers. After surgery there is an aftercare period. Ear cropping surgery is also performed on a variety of cats. Ear cropping in cats is done as a surgical treatment for cancers of the ear. Most dog owners opt to have this surgery for aesthetic reasons, the patient fortunately benefits from the additional medical benefits accompanying the surgery. In rare cases, ear cropping or similar types of surgeries are deemed medically necessary due to health conditions. Otherwise, the decision to crop ears is one made by the dog owner and/or breeder. Other common elective cosmetic procedures include tail docking and dewclaw removal.

The Ear Cropping Surgery

Ear cropping and corrective otoplasties are major surgical procedures, and are as safe and as humane as any other elective surgical procedure when done correctly by an experienced, licensed veterinary surgeon in a hospital environment.

Ear Cropping Age

The surgery is performed at 8-12 weeks of age.  Sometimes the surgery can be done at a later age, however, the chance of the ear successfully standing after surgery decreases with age.  Even when performed at 12 weeks of age there is no guarantee that both ears will stand erect after surgery.  Surgery only shapes the ear.  Whether or not the ear stands up well has to do with the strength of the ear cartilage.  At this age, the cartilage can usually be trained to stand erect.

After Ear Cropping

Ear cropping is a surgical procedure that involves precise cutting and shaping of the ear pinna (the floppy part of the ears) in order to make the ears stand erect. After surgery, the ears are bandaged and propped up so they heal in an erect position. Bandage changes are done weekly, and ears remain taped and propped up until they stand on their own. The healing process can take 4-8 weeks.

Ear Tapping

Important things to remember when taping the ear:

  • Check for odors (The ears should not have a foul smell.)
  • Keep the ears dry.  If the ears get wet, rewrap them with dry tape.
  • DO NOT take the ears down and let the ears “hang” for any length of time.
  • If the ears fall — put them right back up in the roll.

Re-taping Your Puppy’s Ears yourself

learning to tape your puppy’s ears yourself will save you from having to pay the vet’s office to do it for you. It also helps your puppy become accustomed to being handled. Don’t worry if your first attempt is not as pretty as the vet can do it. You can always start over if you don’t think you’ve done a good job and, with just a little practice, you’ll get quite good at it. Another advantage of knowing how is that it can be done as often as you think it needs to be done (for example if the tape gets wet, soiled or ragged or if you wish to inspect the ears for healing progress or infection). Leave the tape on the first time about 3 days then remove it by carefully sliding a blunt ended pair of scissors between the edge of the ear and the tape then slowly peeling the tape from the ears.

Ear Crop Type

There are different lengths of ear crops:

  • Military/Pet Crop: Ears are relatively short in length and has a wider base (bell). They does not typically take very long to stand.
  • Medium Crop: Ears are a little longer and has a little less bell.
  • Show Crop: Ears are longer and a little narrower than the other two crops.
  • Long Crop: Ears are longe.





Ear Cropping Tools

Following tools are used for ear cropping, specially designed ear cropping clamps are used to hold the ears, these clamps function as surgical clamping guides and assist in producing beautiful, consistent ear crops. Breed Specific Kits are available to perform ear cropping, kit includes all necessary tools to perform ear cropping.

Following Breed Specific Ear Cropping Kit are available.


Methods of Tail Docking in Dogs

Methods of Tail Docking in Dogs

Most veterinarians agree that the risk of tail injury is high in adult dogs; Docking is a necessary precaution to further harm. It does not affect the dog ability to do the daily activities also docking improves the health and welfare. Docking is the removal of portions of an animal’s tails or ears. While docking and bobbing are more commonly used to refer to removal of the tail, the term cropping is used in reference to the ears. Tail docking occurs in one of two ways. The first involves constricting the blood supply to the tail with a rubber band










for a few days until the tail falls off. The second involves the cutting the tail with a specially designed tools Emasculator,










a double action stainless steel tool is designed to cut the tail with minimal blood loss as blood vessels are crushed. It reduces trauma with minimal blood loss.

Dog breeds that were historically used as working dogs appeared to have encountered various issues from their tails getting severely cut as they ran through bushes. Sooner or later infections would set in making tail docking a common preventative procedure. With little or none veterinary at those times, docking seemed like a wise preventive measure.

It must be considered as well that centuries ago in Germany, taxes were collected from the owners of non-working dogs, these taxes were defined as “tail taxes” since the distinguishing feature between a working dog and a non working dog was the presence or absence of it’s tail.

This is because most breeds in particular had their tails docked depending on how they were primarily utilized at work.

Tail docking remains still a controversial issue. Many countries ban cropping and docking. While taking a look back into history various explanations for tail docking may seem plausible, today the practice is strictly cosmetically oriented and therefore, really unnecessary. Whether to dock or not in today’s modern world remains the owner’s choice. However, should to dog have the right to choose if his tail should be docked or not, we already now what his answer would be as he expresses himself with the liveliest tail wag ever…..

Docking Methods

There are some methods of docking are commonly practiced:

The majority of breeders used the technique known as “banding”, in which a band, was placed over the end of the puppies tail at 24-96 hours old. This effectively cuts off the blood supply to the end of the tail, which comes away within 4-7 days.

Many vets used to cut the tail with surgical instruments. There is generally no need for stitches, but on occasions these can be used, especially with the larger breeds.

Does It Hurt Puppy

Docking is carried out when puppies are tiny. Their eyes are not yet open and long experience indicates that if carried out correctly, the procedure causes little discomfort or pain.  After docking, puppies will immediately return to their dam to feed, and there is no evidence that development or weight gain is in any way arrested by the docking procedure.

Nor does a dog which has been docked as a puppy have any problems with balance or communication.

If, however, tail damage occurs during adulthood and docking has to be carried out for therapeutic reasons, normally under anesthetic, a dog can be seriously distressed and the healing process can be painful and protracted.

Reasons of Docking

There are two main reasons why Dock Tails:

1. To avoid tail damage

This is the most important reason for docking a tail. A number of working gundog breeds have to hunt game through heavy vegetation and thick brambles, where their fast tail action can easily lead to torn and bleeding tails which are painful and extremely difficult to treat. Docking the end of the tail eliminates the risk of injury.

2. For reasons of hygiene

Dogs with thick hair have a good chance of getting feces on themselves and caught in the tail. Docking can greatly reduce the hygiene problems.